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Are they different in their dietary profile?

22 mayo, 2021

The ice cream market seems to grow without limit every year, flooding supermarkets and billboards for bars, cafes and beach bars. Seductive names and eye-catching flavors are behind products that are constantly ultra-processed and, therefore, nutritionally undesirable. But what about the artisan ice cream?

I confess that the ice creams from a traditional ice cream maker are my weakness. I highly value the job of being a good professional ice cream master, a not easy job whose products go a long way to the industrialists. However, something traditional does not mean that it is healthy or what to abuse. What is the difference in dietary terms to industrial ice cream from the artisan?

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What do we understand by artisan ice cream

Ice creams

Before going into the nutritional analysis of these ice creams, it is convenient to briefly clarify what do we mean by “artisan”. With the tricks used by the industry in their labels and the misuse of confusing terms such as “artisan”, “homemade” or “traditional”, you have to walk with a thousand eyes.

Obviously we are talking about ice cream made using traditional artisan techniques, which they were originally small-scale manuals, and today they are combined with mechanical procedures.

They are products made by ice cream makers who sell their creations in their own spaces. More or less large or small franchisees ice cream parlors that have their workshop in the same place or in another space from where it is distributed to serve the customer.

Ice cream parlors “of a lifetime” have that neighborhood character, usually They make the ice cream every day in their own place and they usually maintain a fixed range of flavors. Although in recent years ice cream has also been updated and younger and more modern proposals have emerged, with a more modern touch, or protected under a national or internationally renowned franchise.

Ice cream shop

Usually artisan ice cream do not introduce added air, habitual practice of the industrialists; It is made naturally within the process itself, and that translates into a better texture and flavor. They also tend to prioritize the freshest ingredients that guarantee perfect results without resorting to aromas or extracts.

Nor should you have an excessively romantic idea of ​​artisan ice cream. Ice cream masters logically use professional equipment, suitable machinery and some ingredient that we would not normally use in our kitchen. That does not detract from the final product; what is sought is to create an ice cream of the highest quality, balanced, with the right creaminess, stable and good flavor.

Ice creams

An ice cream is made through different phases: ingredient mixing, pasteurization, cooling, maturing, freezing and freezing. Each is produced separately, generally with different machines, although industrialists often unify all phases using complex machinery.

Industrial ice creams are manufactured like any other ultra-processed, in large, highly mechanized plants, using many processed ingredients and additives to the detriment of natural raw materials. The problem is not so much the additives, which an artisan ice cream maker can also use, but the low quality of certain ingredients or the inadequate proportion of them.

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Analysis of an artisan ice cream

Ice creams

The range of flavors can be endless also in an artisan ice cream parlor – and that without going into the strange somewhat surreal varieties. As an example for our analysis we are going to focus on three classic flavors of immortal creamy ice creams: vanilla, strawberry and chocolate.

For this we have the information of the ingredients used in a typical neighborhood ice cream parlor such as Chambi, a mythical Murcian place that I know very well, and the Italian Heladería La Romana, with locations in Spain and an ice cream menu that pretends to be something more gourmet with more elaborate flavors.

Frozen

Ingredients

Vanilla (Chambi)

Milk, sugar, eggs, vanilla bean, lemon peel

Crema dal 1947 (La Romana)

Fresh liquid cream 35% fat (27.4%), microfiltered water, condensed milk, egg yolk (11-13.3%) with a base mix of Crema dal 1947 (skimmed milk powder, sucrose, dextrose, maltodextrin , glucose syrup, milk protein, vanilla extract, stabilizers: vegetable fiber, carob flour, lemon essential oil, aroma)

Strawberry (Chambi)

Water, sugar, natural strawberries, acidifier, stabilizer (E-412)

Fragola (La Romana)

Fresh or frozen strawberries (49.4%) with added sucrose, glucose syrup, dextrose, vegetable fiber, sunflower lecithin, citric acid, stabilizers: xanthan gum, guar gum and micofiltered water

Chocolate (Chambi)

Milk, sugar, eggs, cocoa

Cioccolato al latte (La Romana)

Organic fresh whole milk (67.6%), sucrose, cocoa powder 22-24% (30%), vegetable fat (coconut), partially skimmed milk powder, dextrose, milk protein, glucose syrup, stabilizers: fiber vegetable, carob flour, aroma

La Romana Ice Cream

Chambi tells us the approximate calories per ball of its ice creams (51 kcal for vanilla, 34 kcal for strawberry and 66 kcal for chocolate), also in the same establishment, and La Romana also has published the nutritional analysis of all its flavors. As reference, per 100 g of icecream:

Frozen

kcal

Fat (g)

saturated (g)

Hydrates (g)

sugars (g)

Proteins (g)

Salt (g)

1947 dal cream

269

14.1

8.6

29.8

26.8

5.5

0.18

Fragola

140

0.2

0.1

33.5

30.3

0.3

0.01

Cioccolato al latte

184

6.1

4.4

27.4

24.4

4.8

0.09

Analysis of an industrial ice cream

Ice creams

For some reason that I do not know, it is increasingly difficult to find “normal” flavors of industrial ice cream. I suppose they seek to differentiate themselves from the competition and the artisan by adding extras and different touches that attract attention. In any case, these three examples help us to quickly compare the ingredients and nutritional information.

Frozen

Ingredients

Vanilla Carte D’or

Rehydrated skimmed milk, sugar, glucose-fructose syrup, coconut fat, water, lactose and milk proteins, dextrose, glucose syrup, emulsifier (mono and diglycerides of fatty acids), stabilizers (locust bean flour, guar gum, carrageenan ), vanilla beans (0.1%), colors (carotenes, curcumin), vanilla extract (0.08%), aroma

Ben & Jerry’s Vanilla Cookie Chip

Cream (27%), water, condensed skimmed milk, sugar, wheat flour, brown sugar, free-range egg yolk, concentrated butter, vegetable oil and fat (soybean oil, coconut fat), egg, cocoa paste , defatted cocoa powder, vanilla extract, stabilizers (guar gum, carrageenan), molasses, salt, natural butter flavor, cocoa butter, natural vanilla flavor, natural brown sugar flavor with other natural flavors, emulsifier (lecithin soy)

Häagen-Dazs cookies and cream

Pasteurized cream, evaporated skimmed milk, sugar, egg yolk, wheat flour, coconut butter, defatted cocoa powder, natural vanilla flavor, raising agent: sodium carbonates, salt

Carte D’Or chocolate with chocolate chips

Rehydrated skim milk, sugar, water, defatted cocoa powder, glucose-fructose syrup, coconut fat, glucose syrup, whey powder, cocoa butter, milk powder, cocoa mass, emulsifiers (mono and diglycerides fatty acids, ammonium phosphatides, polyglycerol polyricinoleate), stabilizers (guar gum, locust bean gum), skimmed milk powder

Ice creams

Industrial ice cream manufacturers make it a bit confusing to check the nutritional content if we are particularly interested in calories. Some indicate the amounts per 100 g, others per 100 ml and others by what they estimate to be a portion. Here we have the amounts expressed per 100 g:

Frozen

kcal

Fat (g)

Saturated (g)

Hydrates (g)

Sugars (g)

Proteins (g)

Salt (g)

Vanilla Carte D’or

197

7.4

6.7

30

26

2.6

0.01

Ben & Jerry’s Vanilla Cookie Chip

230

13

8

26

twenty-one

3.5

0.14

Häagen-Dazs cookies and cream

263

17

10.5

22.3

20.1

4.4

0.21

Carte D’Or chocolate with chocolate chips

232

12

8

26

22

5

0.2

Our colleagues from Vitonic They have a much more complete comparison analyzing different supermarket ice creams.

The five most sought after ice creams on the Internet and their easiest and most delicious recipes

Conclusions.

Ice creams

An ice cream really it is a dessert that seeks to generate pleasure, but it is still a totally dispensable sweet in the diet. Now, knowing how to choose, we can benefit not only from a better taste and texture, but also from a more interesting nutritional profile.

If we only looked at the calories or the nutrient breakdown we could be disappointed when comparing certain artisan ice creams with industrial ones. We should already know that calories are not the most important thing, and in fact they can lead us to make big mistakes in our diet. It is preferable to look at where those calories come from.

Ice creams

Each artisan has their recipes to offer what you think is your best product. In Chambi, for example, they bet on very simple ice creams, limiting the ingredients to the maximum, and even without adding dairy or fat to the fruit ice creams. In La Romana they have developed more elaborate recipes, playing with different sugars, emulsifiers and other ingredients, looking for the perfect formula.

In both cases fresh ingredients are prioritized, even with organic products and specific origins (Piedmont hazelnut, farm hen eggs …) and natural seasonal fruit. They are ice creams with less air, therefore more weight, more satisfying, and without hydrogenated fats. They also dispense with artificial aromas, colorants and preservatives, as they are ice creams made daily for quick consumption.

Ice creams

Industrial ice creams usually have more air, less filling and we do not know so much the origin of the ingredients. They tend to have more sugars and fats, resorting to those typical of industrial confectionery, often hydrogenated or of low quality. Natural fruit is conspicuous by its absence, colors are enhanced with colorants and aromas are used to …